Living Poor: A Peace Corps Chronicle
Moritz Thomsen
Thomsen is a 40 something Agriculture volunteer in Ecuador.
After a few medical false-starts, he settles into the quaint little town of Rio
Verde and thus goes the process of completing his service. As a volunteer, his
projects (the size and scale) and his willingness to use his living allowance
to help fund them and his neighbors astounds me. This book came at the perfect
time as I am starting to see the deeper levels of relationships, both good and
bad, in my own community and starting to become disillusioned by the mechanism
and paradigm of poverty while also coming to grips with the dynamic and
two-way street that is development. As a
Volunteer you hear stories about PCVs who were practically adopted, but this
glosses over the subtle (and not so) requests for money and gifts and attempts
to put a pricetag on the gringo. Thomsen describes this perfectly as the
“search for a patron:” for someone who will take care of you, who will do what
you have been trained to think you can’t-support yourself. I laughed and cried
throughout the struggles of the chicken project, the fishing projects and the
trials and tribulations of the co-op. And the eventual financial understanding
of the community, where a dollar is a fortune, is heartbreaking but familiar.
There are hilarious moments interspersed as well, like machete fights,
miscommunications, overturned fishing boats and of course the rides into the
city crammed into a truck with livestock inside and on top of the vehicle.
Thomsen does make a profound difference in the lives of Ramon, Orestes, and
Vinceta, his co-op corps, nit at what price? As he says, “living poor is like
being sentenced to exist in a stormy sea in a battered canoe, requiring all
your strength to stay afloat, living wave to wave.” We are taught as Americans
and PCVs to develop, to improve, to better people. But it’s impossible to do
this equally for everyone. So benefits are unevenly distributed and then the
jealousy and isolation begins. Like the city kid who is shunned by his own for
going to college, the corp co-op members are threatened and almost destroyed by
petty rumors and exasperated fueds. The people will truly be happy when they
find peace and success within their own culture and customs. Projects fail and
flounder because people are afraid of change, afraid to trust, and afraid and
threatened by what change might bring: the audacity of hope is crushed by the
comfortable familiarity of abject, but communal, poverty. There’s no way the people
in Rio Verde or Thomsen could have known the social consequences before they
happened but it is heartbreaking to read how the co-op general store suffers
from theft and the storekeeper can’t help himself from buying too many new
things. There is Ramon, who uses his
money to take his wife out of the town to give birth in a hospital and start a
life properly nourished and nurtured (Protein deprivation for the 1st
5 yearsof life permanently destroys up to 25% of human intelligence). We are
taught to think this should be the norm; that with new money, everyone will be
Ramon and invest in health and education. But the truth is that the Ramons, who
are the shunned city kids (to beat the metaphor into the ground), are the
exception and the material luxury goods and status symbols are too tempting in
addition to a lack fo experience and knowledge of how to invest and save for
long-term planning. I knew development was hard and dangerous, but this 1st
hand account of a PCV stands as a warning and a guide for my own roller-coaster
of feelings towards paradigm of effective and sustainable change.
Do I detect from your review that Thomsen also had some medical "adventures?" You are still in the early throes of this adventure. Your immune system may not have been as willing a "volunteer" as you are! Give it time, not curing cancer this month! Enjoy visit with "the boys!" Love, Mom
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