The New House and the RASH

The Great Rash of 2012

Ok, so now that the crisis has passed (knock on wood), let’s get the adventure out.  Last Saturday I got back to my site from Managua with Cipro for a bacterial infection, when I started breaking out in welts and huge red splotches at around 7 at night. Since I am only allergic to zythromax and I could visibly watch the splotches move and get bigger, I called the PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer), who immediately stopped the Cipro and recommended Benedryll to get it under control. Side note: the Peace Corps Office is technically closed on the weekends and the coming Monday was Veterans Day. Yeah! After  moving into my own house and another 48 hours of lots of Benedryll (and even more suggestions and home remedies from all of my neighbors), I walked into Praderas and hopped the bus to Jinotega and then Managua to get into the office first thing Tuesday morning. I love Dr. Maria Auxiliadora, my doctor of choice, because her lovely reaction to my situation reassured me that I had a right to worry. Her exact words were, “It’s not the worst I’ve seen, but it’s more than mild.” She sent me to a specialist at the big, fancy Metropolitano Hospital (bigger and fancier than Porter Medical in Middlebury- see concentrated medical resources in one of most impoverished and malnourished countries in this Hemisphere). The dermatologist gave me stronger prednisone (which I had been taking for a few days after getting it in Praderas from a very drunk gringo pharmacist). I also got Allegra and Benedryll and was told to follow-up in 4 days on Friday. And told to not eat (deep breath)-fish, pork, milk and cheese, fried foods, things with condiments, pineapple, apples, strawberries, seafood, etc. Oh-and the Gender and Development Training Workshop was going on at the same time-so I was a zombie while working on empowering women! And let me go on the record saying that there are only so many things you can do in Managua before going crazy and/or broke. I easily just walked back and forth from the hotel to the PC Office to reorganize my backpack at least 3 times in one day. Good side- TEFL and Environmental groups were COSing (close of service).  Peace Corps Nicaragua has a tradition that every volunteer gets to ring the bell in the middle of the office to the applause of all the present office staff. There are smiles, tears, hugs, and even one engagement proposal!! It was a mental pick-me-up! Another good side was that almost all my roommates in the shared hotel rooms were Health Volunteers who offered their concern and expertise about the Great Rash.  It was a little amusing that the breakfast staff at Hotel Brandt’s knew me by a first name basis by Wednesday and asked about my “condition.” Thursday was my first spot-free day and then got the ok from the dermatologist to go back to site after Friday! And we still don’t know what actually cause this lovely adventure! The PCMO thinks that it may have been stress and/or a reaction with the Cipro. But, like the number of licks to the center of a Tootsie pop, the world may never know…. But here’s a picture to give you an idea of the things the tropics can do to you.

The Rash Day One Hour One (don't think you want to see more)

The New House
These are not going to go up on the blog for very long per Peace Corps security protocol (don’t need people knowing where I live in detail, especially since all the youth who really want to know just have to walk down the road.) There are 4 rooms: bedroom, kitchen, shed, and middle entrance room. There is electricity inside and enough doors and windows with bolts and heavy duty gym locks that I will lock myself in and out at least once before X-mas. I took the pictures of indoors as I was unpacking, so forgive the mess and Witness Protection look. It’s a little better now. Already transplanted my tomatoes, spinach, and  strawberries that I had been raising in recycled plastic bottle. I live next to the CICO, an abandoned preschool building. There is a washing board and faucet there that I share with the mom, Heysi, who lives on the other side of the CICO. That’s when there is water. Granted, Pantasma rarely has water shortages, but it was just coincidence that I left with the Great Rash of 2012 there was no water and when I returned a few days later, there was no water again. Thank God for the generosity of Nicarguans, I was gifted water buckets and some food to tide me over until I could get my own. Similar to how Vermonters can agree to talk about the weather for the first 15 minutes of every conversations, my neighbors started every conversation with the water update. is water. Granted, Pantasma rarely has water shortages, but it was just coincidence that I left with the Great Rash of 2012 there was no water and when I returned a few days later, there was no water again. Thank God for the generosity of Nicarguans, I was gifted water buckets and some food to tide me over until I could get my own. Similar to how Vermonters can agree to talk about the weather for the first 15 minutes of every conversations, my neighbors started every conversation with the water update. “Hay agua? Vino el agua?” or the worst “Se fue” (It went). My neighbors to the other side are the wonderful family of Don Oscar and Dona Marlene. Marlene is very quiet and 6 months pregnant. She loves to sing in the morning and the afternoon.  Oscar plays on the baseball team on Sundays (he’s the catcher) and is a carpenter and engineer for the Hydroelectric project up the mountain. He’s the one who installed the entire new roof for my house and has offered install a shower or help make any other projects during my service. I am currently looking for wood to make a box for lombrices-vermiculture!! Still cleaning and organizing, and figuring out where the ditches are, but I would relate it camping. It’s what you make of it. I spend a little more time working on the basics (latrine, water, food prep without refrigeration, etc). And there is a team of bats with whom I am sharing my clothes dresser.

Oscar and Marlene have two kids, Oscar Junior and Oscary (she’s a girl). They are both adorable and very curious. They and Isabel’s son, Engel, take turns just walking into my house and following me, watching everything I do. The Oscars are much more talkative, and try to update me on all the pertinent information of their lives. I think they are just wildly happy to have someone to talk to who is interested in doing projects. They are super creative and like to tinker. Engel is much younger, and currently is getting over pneumonia. Everyone is sick actually. The climate change, however small it may seem in comparison to New England, does a number on the community of Cuatro Esquinas. Everyone has grippe- which encompasses all flu-like symptoms. This is in part due to the slow damp end of rainy season and the entrance of chilly, uninsulated nights and mornings as we change to dry season. Jinotega is more mountainous and higher up, so dry season requires a sweater until March unlike the rest of the country. My fellow PCVs in Leon and Chinandega could not believe I even had a sweater when I came to the Office.

There is definitely a change in routine towards more independence, but also a scary sense of losing momentum as I shift to living on my own schedule. This also comes around the 3 month mark and I’ll admit that I certainly thought I would be knee-deep in projects and community activities when I looked at this point in my service from the perspective of a Trainee. Thank God for Dona Marlene and Dona Marta. As they say, “You are just starting.” We are so fixated on results and production as Americans, that I can physically feel my heart beating faster as I think about nutrition charlas, youth soccer games, cooking classes, latrines installed, ovens made, things built, things done. One of the local guys walked in on my conversation with my host grandmother and just offhandedly mentioned how he liked me better than the last volunteer because “you’re like us-you placticar y pasear (chat and pass time).” I was flattered and relieved these conversations were helping build social reputation and capital. Thank you for having a big family and the 20 Questions Olympics at Thanksgiving and X-mas. But the difference now, is that people are coming to visit my house to see me. They are placticar-ing with me about my security and giving me their phone numbers for whatever I may need. I’ve read about this generosity and sincerity of Host Country Nationals, but I will admit that I have never lived in a community long enough to just live in it (there was always sports and school, etc.). But here, it is my job and to the better of my experience to integrate, acclimate, adapt and reciprocate. I am getting better about not having to think about it or be culturally sensitive. But, I still have to remind myself, daily if not hourly, that development is a slow process. One volunteer once told me, “They were here before you got here and they will be here in 2 years when you leave; you have to find the balance between being the driving force and one of the guys.”  Another volunteer who is about to extend her service offered, “It’s not about the flashy projects. More often than not, it’s balancing just living in your site with your basic job requirements. Just be ready for the opportunities when they come, but don’t force them. Your community should not suffer simply because you’re fighting boredom.”  And lastly, “It is important to integrate and blend a little with your community, but don’t give up parts of yourself. You are what got you into Peace Corps. It should be a mutually beneficial and additive process;  you don’t  have to compromise to be a good volunteer.” While it is the best advice to keep you service individual and not compare to others, at the same time fellow PCVs are by far the best resources for coping and just sharing the moments.

My Room

                                                              The Chill Out Hammock Area

                                                                       The Kitchen